Removal, preparation and replacement of a basket strainer and repair of a punctured stainless steel sink using JB Weld two part epoxy. Bar sink sized basket strainer shown – procedure is the same for kitchen utility sink sized basket strainers.
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Transcript provided for the hearing impaired:
Alright today on Repairs101 I’m going to change the basket strainer in this leaky sink.
By far the most common leak in any household is the kitchen sink drain.
I pulled off the T junction but I left the water trap in place for the time being.
First off remove the nut that holds the flanged tailpiece and the top hat gasket to the base of the basket strainer. I couldn’t figure out what the white sealer was smeared there for but I just figured it was sloppy workmanship. Right away I noticed the basket nut was broken. Then when I was scraping off the old white sealant – I saw it – there’s a puncture in this sink!
You want near surgical conditions, top and bottom, when it comes to sealing products like these.
I am so confident in J-B Weld that I will just mix up a dab, smear it on and give it a little bit of time to set up.
As much as I prefer to reuse things, the price of a new basket strainer assembly is quite reasonable. Pick up some extra seals while you’re at it.
Only handle putty with clean, dry and/or gloved hands on clean dry surfaces with clean and dry tools. It’s critical for a proper bond. Put on the rubber gasket, the cardboard gasket and the basket nut – torquing it down until all the excess putty comes squeezing out. I do it twice for good measure. Careful not to over-tighten or you’ll break the nut. I clean up with scrapers and a clean dry rag.
To reassemble drop your top hat gasket and your bevelled gasket onto your flanged tailpiece with the water trap nut in place.
I find that having everything loose and gradually working each fitting tight works best and you never end up having to fight the last piece for alignment.
Alright thanks for watching and don’t forget to subscribe!