Replace the Valve and Save the Plumbing!

Replace the Valve and Save the Plumbing!

This is the fastest way to install a new Shower Valve.Learn how to use the torch effectively.

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mick ronson says:

Compression fittings would be much better that is what the threads on the fitting are for.. What is soddering?

Sarah Culver says:

Jeff, HELP! I've removed the screws from the face and unscrewed the trim covering the line into the wall, but the handles will NOT come off. What am I missing? I can't imagine they seized on that tight… Suggestions??

Spork 357 says:

so why are the hot and cold water lines extended so far past the brass faucet? i only really see this done with copper pipe and not with other materials like PEX.

Anshuman Hukkoo says:

You make things look so simple….love your channel

DIY john says:

Would it be better to put a bracing board on the back of the valve and the supply lines? Would that also eliminate the need for the water hammer piping?

djm93 says:

is there only one particular brand of solder we can use what did you use in the video bro n the shower valve looks like it's a moen

The Brown RAT says:

Having no access panel is going to be a pain in the ass later…

robertmdrew says:

Man, your content is awesome. Thanks for the all the help. Question: on the hot and cold supply lines, why is there an extra foot or so of copper above the brass valve housing that just gets capped off? does that help with flow or something? Why not just use an elbow joint there instead?

Arjun Bangalore says:

Can you do a video of valve replacement with shower tub and walls in place? Thanks.

Brian Thornton says:

Old school, yes. It works – I learn I lot on this channel. Old news – you are still "the man."

ASP Home Construction says:

Great video ! But have few comments.
1st some of the copper pipes are type M which can't be use for hot and cold water. U have to use type L copper pipe.
2nd Our days we have to use lead free solder. When u try reusing old solder First u over heat the pipe. Second old lead solder is still there.

So over all u saved about $40 on material but in my opinion didn't bring up to code. Good luck

Cudda Brown says:

One more for the

StrongTower Muzik says:

What's the reason that the cold and hot water pipes go so far past the valve and then are capped off?

Rony Martinez says:

great video!

Chris Randy says:

I love the video but much like your other how to videos I find the music distracting. It's a really cool video and well produced but if you can scrap the music it would be easier to follow. Thanks for the video love your stuff!

Gen Zyannd says:

why not just cut the old pipes out and fit new ones in?

Man Mani says:

I learn alot here like the other program on your channel. thank you

BlahBlahMan Yeah says:

I was wondering why those piece of pipe stub sticking after valve inlets in all your videos. I assume it is done for a reason. Perhaps to stop hammering sound when pipe heats up?

Cody Taber says:

I get the idea of making it simple but isn't the green on the copper pipes an indication of water leakage? It seems like those joints should have been resoldered?

kat says:

Thanks for making these videos! I've learned a ton and I'm sure many others have as well 🙂 Congrats on the 100k subs!

Jaden Kindler says:

would'nt adding flux to the copper tubes be a good idea or do you think the flux works its way in the joint?

Paul Watterson says:

Another great video!!! Do you have a video on how to install a P trap to a bath tub? Thanks for

Bill Castello says:

I've never been confident enough to solder so I just use the Sharkbite fittings and PEX.

krn14242 says:

Always scared to solder pipes, but, might give it a try. You make it look easy. Thanks.

Samuel Feguer says:

Great video, but personally I would go with a pex replacement. Makes it foolproof.

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