DIY Shed – Part 2: Floor

DIY Shed – Part 2: Floor

I get started with putting some wood on the shed. First the 4×4 beams on the concrete piers, then the 2×6 floor frame. Finally the plywood floor is laid on top of everything for the walking surface.

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Steve Mickey says:

GREAT JOB !!! Everyone's a critic…

adam lambert says:

How did you level out the 2x6s on the piers if the piers weren't level to begin with? Did you just put some concrete under each 2×6 to level it out? thanks

Bondo says:

Hi.. I had planned on putting the 4×4 post approx 6 inches in from the edge so all the joists lay on the beam. then use a few hangers to connect the post to the Joists in a few areas. That's supposed to add stiffness to the floor and keep it straight per different online designs. You put the 4 x 4 on the very edge and added joist hangers. wondering what's your thoughts are between the two options. Thank you

Ranjit Gunner says:

a²+b2=c²: 12² +12²=288 -> c=sqrt 288 = 16.97 not an unknown number!
This is essential, if you don't know this you shouldn't build a shed or any kind of building at all, for your own safety.

Richard Hodges says:

Where's the rest of the shed build? Would like to see the outcome.. between your video and a couple of the comments I'll be starting my 12×12 this weekend.

rob whee says:

Jeff Goldbloom makes a sturdy Shed.

Matthewseven13 says:

So, apperently you never plan on heating it? since you didn't insulate the floor system?

Brian Perendy says:

tank for sale! lol

Nathaniel Stevens says:

how is the floor frame secured to the footing? thanks

Tim B says:

Overkill, start to finish.

captainkrunch says:

screws aren't as strong as screws so I don't know if that was a good idea.  Also the blocking seems  a little redundant since you have plywood going over the top.  Using math to to figure out the diagonal measurement is a little over the top.  You just have to make sure the diagonal measurements are the same regardless of your math answers.  The whole things is just overdone with materials and time…especially the time it took to put screws in everywhere instead of using a framing nailer

Mac Spelling says:

Nice job and well documented, I am using your video as a reference for building a 10 x 20

Gary Mercer says:

Expensive flooring. I used 5/8" plywood on my 8×8 and it was substantial enough. But 8×8 is not 12×12. One thing about your construction, it will be there for your grand kids grand kids! Great job!

Ed Waggoner Sr. says:

Your floor was squishy because you didn't lay the plywood perpendicular to the floor joist.  Bridging isn't used to brace the plywood, it's used to stiffen the floor joists, something experience has shown to be useless.  The end of a floor joist only need be supported two inches,  3.5" – 1.5" = 2", ergo the joist hangers were a waste of time and money. You did a good job, but it would have been better had you consulted with one or two experienced carpenters, you probably would have saved a few dollars and some time too. 

Marlin says:

To me, the poured footings, pins and 4×4 posts seems like major overkill for a simple shed. Trying to get all the footings perfectly level, and all the pins in just the right spot so the floor fits on them perfectly while remaining square takes a lot more calculation and precision than is necessary. Do you live in a hurricane or high wind prone area? Simply pouring footings and framing a square floor that will be leveled with posts on the footings is much easier and more than enough for a shed IMHO.

Jonathan Morrning says:

So i dont know if its such a good idea but it look s easy enough 

0123lilworm says:

Is it ok to use untreated plywood for the shed floor if it's about 1 foot of the ground?.

Steve Petrie says:

Love the video.
I think "Everybody on youtube says 'Make sure your diagonals are the same distance' " because that's a simpler application of the Pythagorean theorem than actually doing any math.  You don't have to figure out that your diagonal should be 203.64675… inches; just make the diagonals' lengths match, whatever it is for your size rectangle.

ah goor says:

amateur with a hammer

Yunus Butt says:

Would the lumber rot and not last very long as its resting right on the concrete there should be a barrier between the lumber so its not licking moisture off the concrete. 

Joel Vinkle says:

We usually use ACQ (treated) tongue-and-grove plywood up here in Canada.  That decreases the "squishy feel" substantially.
I have never seen the 4×4 thing horizontally either.  Hope that works out.
Impressive piles though! That must have taken a bit to get those all perfectly level.

MyChannel says:

Hope no one tries to copy the way this is done. Time to stop to see the rest after seeing the sheathing.

Himithor says:

He sounds like the GEICO pig Maxwell.LOL

lail4h says:

he means the 3-4-5- rule!

siannopollo says:

I used joist hangers because while the box I made sat on top of the 4x4s, there were some portions of the floor joist ends that only overlapped the 4×4 by about 1/4". I didn't feel comfortable with that little of the joist overlapping the 4×4 so I used the joist hangers to ensure the joists would be secure on the ends.

siannopollo says:

I used joist hangers because while the box I made sat on top of the 4x4s, there were some portions of the floor joist ends that only overlapped the 4×4 by about 1/4". I didn't feel comfortable with that little of the joist overlapping the 4×4 so I used the joist hangers to ensure the joists would be secure on the ends.

siannopollo says:

I used joist hangers because while the box I made sat on top of the 4x4s, there were some portions of the floor joist ends that only overlapped the 4×4 by about 1/4". I didn't feel comfortable with that little of the joist overlapping the 4×4 so I used the joist hangers to ensure the joists would be secure on the ends.

volvosan says:

Several things unconventional you did (for future reference, because what you did is fine): 1st, because getting sonotubes level, one to another, is difficult, the normal procedure is to use a metal post base. Base bolts to threaded rod/bolts, bolts are cut off flush with the top of the nut. Base comes with square metal plate which covers the bolt, raised above end of the bolt & nut. Secure 4×4 or 6×6 posts, snap a level caulk line, notch the posts for 2×6. Quick & perfect, Also stagger 4×8's

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