3 DIY Garage Door Upgrades | Adding insulation, Replacing Opener and Weather Strip (in one day)

3 DIY Garage Door Upgrades | Adding insulation, Replacing Opener and Weather Strip (in one day)

3 garage door improvements/repairs you can do in one day. After one of the springs on the garage door broke I decided to upgrade a few other items. I replaced the garage door opener, replaced weather stripping on the bottom of the door and added insulation.

Sponsored by Home Depot: https://homedepot.sjv.io/6R1Zr

Written Article: @ http://bit.ly/2YUeTaa

Items used in the video:

Smart Garage Door Opener: https://homedepot.sjv.io/0B5NM
Garage Door Bottom rubber strip: https://homedepot.sjv.io/3MaNK
Garage Door Insulation Kit: https://homedepot.sjv.io/RDo99

Check out my woodworking plans @ https://gumroad.com/diycreators

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DIY Creators says:

Thanks to all the Garage-Pros! I got rid of the slack in the belt I just needed to add a little more tension to it!
To find out more about this project I have a written version here. I will post all my updates on this project here. http://bit.ly/2YUeTaa

Eric Dynneson says:

Hello, Your belt on your new Chamberlain is very loose. Have you tightened it?

tj murphy says:

Nice job, neat and concise informative and interesting….. thanks

ME T says:

3rd person singular

Nick Adams says:

oh… I can already tell this is going to be fun.

1: less than a minute into this, 59 seconds…. The primary reason this operator is quite isn't that it's belt drive. it's because it's a DC motor. Belt driven does help with this, but it's mostly because it's a DC motor….

2: The Tbar that is mentioned shortly after….before 1:37….. is better than the multiple pieces for the rail. those pieces can rub against each other and create additional noise over time… one of the things he's already bragging about in this change out.

3: 1:55 well… I didn't make it far this time. This entire unit can be taken out as one piece. disconnect from the door, then disconnect from the wall, and then the ceiling. He was right about one thing. He's no expert.

4: 2:43 If he had purchased a proper t-rail operator for this replacement, he could have reused the old bracket. the old unit and the new unit are both liftmaster. It should be noted that you cannot purchase a proper Trail operator from Home Depot.

5: 2:43 It's very unusual that there would be space side to side between the operator mount and the spring mount. They are usually mounted to the same piece of wood. If they don't line up, either you're on a completely different section of the door, or one of the two is not connected to anything solid…. consult a pro. do not mess with garage door springs without proper training.

6: 3:06 This one is mostly personal opinion. If he had purchased the same operator, but a chain drive, he could have reused the Tbar that he was in such a hurry to get rid of. That would have been a superior setup. The Tbar will bolt into those same spots on the operator, but the old operator was chain drive and the new one is bet driven. (this is unique to this specific install, but not something that I would ever encounter as the operators I install come with a Trail like what was taken out. This is still not the best option as the pulley on the door side will wear out over time. If you can find it, purchase a 1 piece rail if you're going to replace your operator.)

7: 5:56 That setup is completely wrong. The bracket he says he didn't have to replace is mounted in the wrong location. It should be below the Strut…. not mounted to it, and the bend in that arm he just put together exists to wrap around the strut and should be on the down end. Other garage door techs have already made this comment.

8: 6:44 He discusses wiring in the photocells, but shows wiring in photocells and the wall button. Replacing the photocells technically isn't necessary. The photocells are the same from the old to the new, and rarely go bad. This step does however offer you another opportunity to make a mistake and cross a wire. Save the old ones, just in case.

9: 7:15 "Usually this is a no traffic area in every garage"… not true… people love to prop stuff up in that area. It's pretty profitable for garage door techs when the door hits something leaned up here and knocks the door off track. CHA CHING!

10: 7:25 "staple the wires to the wall" or something like that… If you use square stapes, they can cut the wires and cause problems…. "and for safety reasons, you want to keep these pretty low to the ground." The distance from the ground is strictly regulated. Be sure to check the instructions for where they need to be mounted.I look forward to the day when home inspectors actually check this when you go to sell your home.

11: Be careful when pulling screws from this area of the door. The one he pulled also attaches the bottom bracket which the springs are attached to. Removing this bracket completely is very dangerous.

12: 13:50 as others have said. do not lubricate the track. Lubricate the spring, the hinges, and the bearings inside each roller, but never the track.

That covers my criticisms I don't mean to be negative, but garage doors can be very dangerous. One thing I can say positive about this video is that I don't see anything he's recommended that could be dangerous for someone attempting to do it. Please do more research before you attempt this project.

Rick Ward says:

Wasn't missing nuts and bolts. Looks like you used them all on mounting the head. You typically don't need that 90 degree extension. So 2 bolts are provided for mounting. Just two bolts with the punch angle straight down to the back holes would have been fine. Also the j arm is backwards. Curved end goes to the trolley and straight end goes to the door below the support strut. Also anyone considering adding insulation panels, it will add weight to your door and make door unbalanced. Will need more tension (but no more than one turn) bigger springs may be needed. For sensors to be up to code you also need to have them 6in or less from the ground. Also you didnt have to take the chain off when removing the old motor. Just the pin from the header bracket and the bolts from the ceiling mount. I adding this comment hoping it will help someone, not to bash the creator. Sounds like it was his first one and that's okay..

bannedfromtv says:

A+ brother man

Eric Hashbarger says:

If you add insulation to your door, you may also need to add tension to the spring/springs as the insulation will add weight to the door causing it to be heavier for the springs to lift. Be careful and have knowledge of the springs before messing with them, for they are dangerous!

Steve Rivera says:

I have NEVER seen anyone with garage door wiring inside of the sheet rock. Most people's I've seen, including my own, is just stapled along the ceiling and wall. I must sat Im truly impressed – such a clean look!

SUDHEER KUMAR says:

I am Indian iwant

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