Removal, preparation and replacement of a basket strainer and repair of a punctured stainless steel sink using JB Weld two part epoxy. Bar sink sized basket strainer shown – procedure is the same for kitchen utility sink sized basket strainers.
Clogged Drain? https://youtu.be/qg6Y8PyeNkk
How To Clear Rusted Pipe To Restore Water Flow Using CLR https://youtu.be/3ilMucKA_G8
Transcript provided for the hearing impaired:
Alright today on Repairs101 I’m going to change the basket strainer in this leaky sink.
By far the most common leak in any household is the kitchen sink drain.
I pulled off the T junction but I left the water trap in place for the time being.
First off remove the nut that holds the flanged tailpiece and the top hat gasket to the base of the basket strainer. I couldn’t figure out what the white sealer was smeared there for but I just figured it was sloppy workmanship. Right away I noticed the basket nut was broken. Then when I was scraping off the old white sealant – I saw it – there’s a puncture in this sink!
You want near surgical conditions, top and bottom, when it comes to sealing products like these.
I am so confident in J-B Weld that I will just mix up a dab, smear it on and give it a little bit of time to set up.
As much as I prefer to reuse things, the price of a new basket strainer assembly is quite reasonable. Pick up some extra seals while you’re at it.
Only handle putty with clean, dry and/or gloved hands on clean dry surfaces with clean and dry tools. It’s critical for a proper bond. Put on the rubber gasket, the cardboard gasket and the basket nut – torquing it down until all the excess putty comes squeezing out. I do it twice for good measure. Careful not to over-tighten or you’ll break the nut. I clean up with scrapers and a clean dry rag.
To reassemble drop your top hat gasket and your bevelled gasket onto your flanged tailpiece with the water trap nut in place.
I find that having everything loose and gradually working each fitting tight works best and you never end up having to fight the last piece for alignment.
Alright thanks for watching and don’t forget to subscribe!
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Thank you for your time and this video. I know I can do this!
Great, great video!
Great, simple to the point with wonderful explanations. Helped me get the basics down to alleviate anxiety about repair/replace.
Shit this may be my problem thanks
I have that problem also, in my old house and current house…..so I put plumbers putty around the base of the nut….works for a few years….leaks again …just reapply. I like to know how plumbers get around this….maybe this is a reason to use non threaded tailpipes and buy the solvent/glue.
you didn't show that it didn't leak any more??
Appreciate mention of surgical cleanliness to provide optimal adherence.
Great video; thanks !!!!
Have you ever had a top hat gasket that seemed to be too big, restricting water flow? The top hat gasket that came with my brand new stainless steel sink is rubber and fits inside of the drain pipe perfectly, but seems to block quite a bit of the strainer's already small openings, resulting in occasionally slow drainage that is not caused by a blockage in the drain itself.
Excellent! Quite helpful, but I can't summon enough torque between my son and I to unscrew the nut below. The whole basket spins in the sink, even when trying to hold it with pliers inserted into the strainer.
If you're like me, who can't find plumber's putty in your country, you may replace it with Blu-Tack adhesive putty. A bit more expensive, I guess, but it does the job well.
Thanks, it was a pretty job ! welldone !
Thank you so much, new home owner and your videos are so helpful
So I put the putty in from the top. Thank you. I'm having that exact problem.